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Difficulty: MediumOceans, Coastal Processes, and Coastal Landforms

Match each coastal marine process or wave phenomenon listed in the left column with its corresponding geomorphic action or landform effect in the right column.

  • Constructive wave actionDeposition of marine sediment building up broad, low-gradient beaches
  • Hydraulic actionPneumatic pressure from trapped air compressed inside cliff fissures
  • Wave refractionBending of wave fronts concentrating erosive energy onto headlands
  • Corrasion (Abrasion)Scouring and scraping of cliff bases using wave-borne pebbles and sand

Answer

Constructive wave action matches deposition of marine sediment building broad beaches; Hydraulic action matches pneumatic pressure from trapped air compressed in cliff fissures; Wave refraction matches bending of wave fronts concentrating energy on headlands; Corrasion (Abrasion) matches scouring and scraping of cliff bases using wave-borne sediment.
Constructive wave action deposits sediment to build beaches because swash exceeds backwash. Hydraulic action exerts pneumatic pressure as air is compressed in cliff cracks. Wave refraction bends waves to focus erosive power on projecting headlands. Corrasion utilizes sand and pebbles as abrasive tools to scour cliff bases.

Step-by-Step Solution

1
Analyze constructive wave dynamics.
Swash dominates over backwash, leading directly to sediment deposition.
Low-frequency, low-energy waves transport material onto the shore faster than it is pulled back into the ocean.
2
Examine the mechanics of hydraulic action.
Identify trapped air compression inside rock joints.
The force of moving water compresses trapped pockets of air in rock cavities, exerting tremendous pressure that shatters jointed cliffs.
3
Evaluate wave refraction along irregular coastlines.
Determine that wave crests curve toward headlands.
Friction in shallow water near headlands slows down wave segments while deeper segments in bays continue faster, redirecting energy.
4
Identify the process of corrasion (abrasion).
Connect wave-carried load to cliff base erosion.
Sediments hurled by waves act like sandpaper, scouring away rock faces near high-tide level.

Key Concept

Coastal wave processes and marine erosional/depositional mechanics
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Topics

Oceans, Coastal Processes, and Coastal Landforms

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